Plus, precisely why it’s a superstar for acne-prone skin.

“Skin is a biological creation that has so many different aspects, which is why you should not just use one ingredient at all times,” says Director of Innovation at Reale Actives Dr. Kiran Mian, MD. “Instead, your skin needs different components that can help create and maintain its barrier.” Enter: Squalane. Alongside a long list of other skincare powerhouses, squalane is a key player in Reale Actives Go Deep 8% Mandelic Acid Serum Concentrate as well as Reale Actives Get Bare Makeup Melting Cleansing Balm. We know that you have been asking why we’d put an oil (even a lightweight one) in a line made for acne-prone skin. Because you asked, we of course, want to answer. Which is why we decided to do a deep dive into squalane with Alix’s go-to skin pro, Dr. Mian, to find out not only what squalane is and how to properly pronounce it but also reveal how it benefits acne-prone skin and why formulation — yet again — makes all the difference.

What Even Is Squalane? 

First things first: The proper way to pronounce squalane is pronounced SKWAY-lane. Next up: what even is it? In basic terms, it’s a naturally occurring lipid. “Squalane is a very lightweight naturally occurring oil that is actually also a natural part of skin’s sebum,” explains Dr. Mian. That means the skin is able to recognize it and is more likely to utilize it when it’s applied topically. 

Because squalane is very easily oxidized (essentially, when it comes in contact with oxygen it loses some of its potency), Reale Actives utilizes hydrogenated squalane in its stellar hydrator. “This form of squalane is significantly more stable than basic squalane and therefore popular in skincare formulas,” says Dr. Mian. And good news: when you see it laced into skincare, it’s now totally plant-derived (from natural sources such as olives, sugarcane or grapeseed) instead of the old school shark-liver versions that it’s still often mistaken for.

Why Squalane Is a Star Ingredient — Especially for Acne-Prone Skin

Dr. Mian describes squalane as a beautiful emollient that is extremely beneficial for acne-prone and sensitive skin types when formulated correctly. “Emollients help to smooth and soften the skin as well as reinforce the skin barrier,” she explains. “The skin barrier has a structure similar to a brick wall — think of healthy skin essentials acting like cement in between skin cells — and squalane is one of the components that helps to reinforce that wall because it fills in those little micro gaps in the skin barrier.” 

Squalane is also non-comedogenic (aka it isn’t shown to typically clog pores) when used correctly, super breathable, and your skin recognizes it easily, which makes it gentle even for sensitive or reactive types. Needless to say, it’s pretty standard in skincare. However, it’s not always a standout for those with acneic skin and according to Dr. Mian says it should be.  “Unlike heavier oils, squalane has low cohesion so it doesn’t feel sticky or sit on top of skin but it also has high adhesion which means it spreads easily and sinks in beautifully,” Dr. Mian adds. “All of this means that squalane is able to hydrate without feeling greasy.” Yes, please.

Common Misconceptions about Squalane and Acne

It’s often believed that acne-prone skin already has too much oil, so why add more? Dr. Mian gets into the nuance: in reality, many people who deal with acne or relatively frequent breakouts are actually dehydrated. “Acne- prone skin often has a skin barrier that is compromised especially when using acids, retinoids, or other actives, which has the potential to lead to more oil production as the skin tries to compensate,” she explains. PSA: Squalane is a stellar ingredient to help calm that cycle. 

Another stand out about squalane’s chemical structure — it’s an oil but it does not have fatty acids. “That’s important because fatty acids can sometimes contribute to fungal acne,” she says. “Squalane is just a hydrocarbon chain chemically speaking, so it’s a great way to reinforce the skin barrier without causing issues.”

Short-Term and Long-Term Benefits of Using Squalane

In the first few days after starting a squalane-laced moisturizer, serum or cleanser, you’ll likely instantly notice calmer, dewier, and softer skin. “You will see a calmness to your skin,” says Dr. Mian. “And if you were experiencing any flaking or dryness or tight feeling from a compromised barrier, you’ll have relief in those symptoms, so your skin will feel dewy and soft and hydrated, calm with less irritation and less flaking.”

Over time your skin will build resilience. “Squalane will help to reinforce your skin’s essential barrier and you’ll notice more tolerance to your actives,” she says. “Your skin won’t feel dry in a long-term way, plus chronic dehydration will improve and as a result, your skin will overall feel more balanced.”

The Reale Philosophy about Squalane

Just like with other proven hydrators such as shea butter and ceramides, no ingredient lives in a vacuum in your skincare. Reale Actives was created for all skin types, including acne-prone types, to help those dealing with over-exfoliated, red, painful skin from using actives without proper hydration support, Alix included. 

Dr. Mian is straight up about squalane, including the fact that one hundred percent squalane from the bottle can be too much for acne-prone skin and may lead to milia, congestion, or a heavy feeling on skin that you definitely do not want. That’s why it’s all about choosing a science-backed real life tested formula. “In Reale Actives, squalane is added in as a super smart percentage alongside other barrier-supporting ingredients,” Dr. Mian says. 

The total takeaway: Squalane was intentionally chosen as a core ingredient in the Reale Actives lineup to help strengthen skin’s barrier so you can keep using the actives you need without your skin freaking out.