Alix Earle’s dermatologist does a deep dive into this buzz-worthy liquid exfoliant.
Dealing with acne day in and day out, can be a lot. Then factor in trying to navigate which products will really work with every TikTok scroll revealing countless so-called ingredient sure things and securing an acne a routine that truly delivers can seem impossible. Although you likely already know all the classic acne VIPs such as salicylic acid, glycolic acid, retinol and benzoyl peroxide, mandelic acid is the under-the-radar exfoliating newbie according to skin pros and skinfluencers alike. Sure, tried and true acne ingredients may have a long list of pros but if your skin can’t tolerate them, what’s the point? Mandelic acid may not be as strong as its alpha hydroxy acid siblings (hello: glycolic acid) but its results are slow and steady and extremely versatile. Think: glow getting, skin smoothing, pore clearing and calming.
Here, we created the ultimate guide to mandelic acid for acne including what it is, its top skin benefits, how and when to use it and more.
What is Mandelic Acid?
“Mandelic acid is a derivative from seeds of bitter almonds that is a type of alpha hydroxy acid,” says Kiran Mian, MD, Director of Clinical Innovation at Reale Actives and dermatologist at Hudson Dermatology and Laser Center in New York City. Although alpha hydroxy acids are the darlings of liquid exfoliation, not all are created equal. The most common AHA’s include glycolic acid and lactic acid however, mandelic acid is now getting buzz among pros, specifically for acne and sensitive skin types. That’s because “mandelic acid is a large molecule, which means that it works slowly in the skin, which allows it to do its thing without creating more irritation,” explains Dr. Mian. Mandelic acid’s gentle profile makes it ideal for those with sensitive skin as well as a starter step if you’re a baby stepping into using liquid exfoliants. “Alix has acne prone skin but she also has very sensitive skin,” notes Dr. Mian who’s been treating Earle for her acne concerns for several years before collaborating on her skincare line debut. “That's why her acne can be red and inflamed and even painful at times,” she adds. “We discovered from Alix personally testing mandelic acid that it is an ingredient that is very well tolerated by her skin, so we made it the hero ingredient in our Reale Actives Go Deep 8% Mandelic Serum Concentrate.”
Benefits of Mandelic Acid for Acneic Skin
Mandelic acid helps prevent and minimize the frequency and intensity of acne flare ups. “It’s very important to exfoliate if you have acne prone skin but you don't want to over-exfoliate either because that can cause the skin to vary and trigger more inflammation,” says Dr. Mian. “When it came to creating a serum that can treat acne, but do it in a gentle way, we needed an ingredient that is effective at managing oil production, exfoliating dead skin cells so they don't clog pores and also reaches into pores to keep them clean.”
A major pro of mandelic acid is that it helps block tyrosinase, an enzyme that produces pigment within skin. This is really important for those with acne because once a pimple heals, it often leaves behind a post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation mark. Mandelic acid also helps prevent post-acne scars for those with darker skin tones, who are often more prone to visible acne scars. Another unique benefit of mandelic acid is that it’s a universally tolerated acid-based exfoliant by nearly all skin types because it’s so gentle yet incredibly effective. “If you have dry sensitive skin, you can use mandelic acid; and then if you have oily acne prone skin, you can also use mandelic acid,” says Dr. Mian. Mandelic acid has also been shown to help stimulate collagen production to firm skin as well as assist in fading fine lines.
What to Expect When Using Mandelic Acid
“The very first time you use Real Actives Go Deep 8% Mandelic Serum Concentrate, you'll notice a beautiful glow like a glass finish to your skin,” says Dr. Mian. “As soon as you apply it, it makes your skin look very dewy and fresh.” But your relationship with mandelic acid should be a long term investment, not a quick fling. “As you use it daily over several weeks, you’ll see the texture of your skin has smoothed out and looks brighter and will be more reflective, plus an improvement in your breakouts and decreased inflammation, because acne will appear more calm and subdued with less congestion,” she adds.
Keep in mind that as skin purges clogs, you may experience a subtle and short-term increase in breakouts. “In the beginning, if skin has a lot of congestion, it may look like the acne is getting worse and that's because that blockage is coming up to the surface,” explains Dr. Mian. “That's a good sign because it means that mandelic acid is working.”
How and When to Use Mandelic Acid for Acne-Prone Skin
Mandelic acid based serums are considered a treatment step so how and when you apply it can dictate how skin absorbs it and therefore, the results it can provide. After cleansing, experts recommend applying just a few targeted drops of a mandelic-acid serum on skin and massaging it all over using your fingertips. Next, always apply a moisturizer on top to maximize mandelic acid’s performance. “Mandelic acid is a chemical exfoliant, its job is to slough off dead skin cells as well as break apart oil, so you want to moisturize when using it so that your skin barrier can maintain its tolerability to this ingredient as well as other powerful activities,” explains Dr. Mian.
How and when you use mandelic acid is also based on your skin type. “If you have sensitive skin, you may want to start using it just three times a week at night only so that your skin can build tolerability to it,” Dr. Mian suggests. “However, if you have skin that's really resilient and doesn't tend to get sensitive, you can use it every night and then maybe even work up to twice a day, in both the morning and night.” If you incorporate mandelic acid into your morning skincare routine, using sunscreen on top of a moisturizer is essential because it can cause skin to be slightly sensitized to UV rays and damage.
Dr. Mian recommends continuing to customize your mandelic acid routine as your skin’s needs shift. “It could be that in the beginning you use mandelic acid more frequently and then once your skin is clear, you don't have to use it every night because your skin is past that inflammatory phase,” she says. “When your skin is clear, you can go back to using it a few times a week or keep using it daily.”
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the benefit of using mandelic acid as a serum?
“Having active skincare ingredients in the form of a serum is always the most effective because serums are thinner than, let's say, a lotion or cream, and absorb better into skin because of their texture,” explains Dr. Mian. “Serums can also contain more concentrated amounts of an ingredient which is why we wanted our hero treatment product, Reale Actives 8% Mandelic Acid Serum Concentrate, to be in the form of a serum.”
Why is the Real Actives Go Deep Mandelic Serum Concentrate formulated at 8%?
“We wanted a percentage that was effective, but not too harsh,” says Dr. Mian. “Eight percent is that sweet spot where it's effective, but doesn't cause irritation.” Another benefit of utilizing this precise percentage is the texture. “A lot of times mandelic acid specifically can be a little bit hard to work with when it comes to formulation and it can often feel very sticky—this serum feels so comfortable on the skin and doesn't feel sticky at all,” she adds.
Can mandelic acid be used as a spot treatment?
“I recommend always using mandelic acid all over the face and not using it as a spot treatment because you may miss treating a potential clog without knowing it,” says Dr. Mian. “However, you could apply it all over your skin each night and then only concentrate it on areas you break out more in the morning.”
Can mandelic acid be layered with other powerful anti-acne ingredients?
“If your skin can tolerate it, you can absolutely use a mandelic acid serum and then add a retinoid on top,” says Dr. Mian. “But if your skin needs to build that tolerance, start by using it every other day—and sometimes you may want to revert to the ‘sandwich method’ where you put a moisturizer on top of a mandelic acid serum and then a retinoid on top of that so that the moisturizer acts as a buffer and protects skin when it's still in the process of getting used to the retinoid.”
Alix’s Go-To Serum That Contains Mandelic Acid
Reale Actives Go Deep 8% Mandelic Serum Concentrate, $39
Along with acne-fighting mandelic acid, this unique blend contains Synactin AC, a complex that helps regulate keratinization, which is the formation of skin cells where new ones can form and take the place of the old allowing the pre-existing skin cells to fall off. If this process goes off the rails, it’s the precursor to pore clogging. This stellar combination helps decrease bacteria, inflammation, redness and swelling as well as post-acne scarring.
“The synergy between mandelic acid and synactin AC is what we found makes this serum so effective,” says Dr. Mian. “We were blown away by the clinical trials when we put those two ingredients together.”
