Yes, it's also Alix approved.
To truly treat acne, finding a product regimen that works for acne-prone skin and staying consistent with that curated system is the secret to securing skincare success. That’s because the products you use day after day are your first line of defense to manage breakouts and keep your skin clear and calm (not to mention your metal mindset, too). “Acne is a genetic condition and there is no set cure for acne,” says Kiran Mian, MD, Director of Clinical Innovation at Reale Actives and board certified dermatologist at Hudson Dermatology and Laser Center in New York City, who collaborated with Alix to bring Reale Actives to life. But wait, don’t have a breakdown yet: “Because being acne-prone is a type of skin that you’re born with, the goal is to get to a place where you’re using products to make your skin clear and most importantly, stay clear,” she says. Have your attention, now?
Read on for the exact step-by-step skincare routine that Alix sticks to religiously. Plus, learn why it works wonders as a regimen straight from the dermatologist that helped create it and sees Earle 1:1 for her skincare concerns IRL.
The Best Science-Backed Morning Acne Routine
(Cleanse → Treat → Hydrate → Protect)
CLEANSE
Let’s say you went to bed with clean skin yet when you wake up, your face feels oily—again. “I tell my patients that first thing in the morning wet their skin with lukewarm water and then take their cleanser on their fingertips and gently massage it into their skin for about 30-60 seconds before rinsing it off,” says Dr. Mian. “I don't like washcloths, brushes or scrubs because they can irritate skin more and harbor bacteria.”
Opt for a gel-based cleanser that contains ingredients such as salicylic acid and willow bark acid to break down excess sebum without leaving skin feeling dry or tight like Reale Actives Pore Power LHA + BHA Gel Cleanser. “These beta hydroxy acids are lipophilic, which means they dissolve oil, so they go into pores and help clean them out,” explains Dr. Mian, who adds that Real Actives utilizes a combination of LHA, a derivative of salicylic acid along with willowbark extract, a precursor to salicylic acid, because of their gentler profile.“This was so important to Alix because she was using products meant for acne but her skin was feeling raw because they were too harsh,” she notes.
In the morning, because you’re starting with a clean slate, it’s totally normal to want to customize where you use your cleanser or alternate between formulas based on what your skin needs in specific areas. “Oil glands are more concentrated in the T-zone area, so that area tends to be more oily, whereas the cheeks can be dry,” says Dr. Mian. “You can use a water-based gel cleanser in the T-zone and then not focus it as much on your cheeks if they’re more dry or swap your cleanser entirely and use an oil-based balm or creamy cleanser on those dryer areas.” For those with acne-prone skin, scan the label of cleansing balms or cream cleansers for non-comedogenic oils (aka not pore clogging) that help restore a healthy oil balance to your skin—such as meadowfoam oil, sea buckthorn oil, grapeseed oil or sunflower seed oil. “These types of cleansers prevent stripping further moisture from the skin, plus will be more gentle and add hydration,” she notes. (Alix’s pick: Reale Actives Get Bare Makeup Melting Cleansing Balm)
TREAT
Next, it’s time for the main anti-acne event: treating active breakouts while preventing future pimples by keeping pores clear and bacteria under control. “You should use treatment products and ingredients that are not photosensitive, meaning you can go out into the sun and it won't cause irritation on your skin and the ingredients won't become overactive due to sun exposure, plus they won't get deactivated due to UV light,” Dr. Mian says. “There's no point in putting something on your skin if you're going to go in the sun and it's just going to get deactivated and not work or cause any irritation.”
The most important daytime treatment you can use regularly is a liquid exfoliant. “Acne prone skin is known to have abnormal keratinization,” says Dr. Mian. “Which means skin cells become more sticky and are more likely to clog pores.” Next, bacteria feeds on the oil and skin cells that make up the clog and next thing you know, you’re dealing with a full blown mega pimple. Look for gentle but effective exfoliants that slough off the dead skin cells clinging to the surface, plus those along the lining of pores so that neither can mix with oil and cause clogs. These include actives such as alpha hydroxy acids including mandelic acid, glycolic acid and lactic acid. Always apply a liquid exfoliant in a thin, even application all over clean skin, massaging it into skin thoroughly. (Try Reale Actives Go Deep 8% Mandelic Acid Serum Concentrate)
HYDRATE
Just because you’re coping with oily skin and breakouts, doesn’t mean you can skip moisturizer. “A damaged skin barrier is a huge part of what drives acne,” says Dr. Mian. “A compromised skin barrier leads to loss of hydration due to an increase in TEWL, which stands for transepidermal water loss, which in turns causes skin to compensate and oil glands overproduce oil.” The result: dehydrated yet oily skin and the perfect environment for pores to get clogged. What happens next? “To treat the acne, you reach for actives that are way to harsh, further damaging the skin barrier and continuing the perpetual cycle,” Dr. Mian explains. “That’s why healing your skin barrier is so important in the long term treatment of acne.”
Ingredients that are essential in a daily moisturizer for acne-prone skin include “the building blocks of skin such as ceramides, linoleic acid, cholesterol, squalane plus ingredients needed to pull in water, which is necessary to create healthy skin lipids—like glycerin, hyaluronic acid and panthenol,” says Dr. Mian. Another plus for prioritizing moisturizer: it can make your makeup look better, too. “When you use Reale Actives Dew More Barrier Boosting Moisturizer in the morning, it works as an amazing primer for makeup,” shares Dr. Mian. “The consistency of it absorbs right in—it doesn't sit on top of the skin the way other moisturizers can so you don’t even have to wait long, maybe 60 seconds—before applying face makeup, plus it doesn’t pill or clump.”
PROTECT
Between dealing with a naturally compromised skin barrier and using actives regularly to mitigate breakouts, experts say regular use of a daily sunscreen can actually be a game-changer for those with acne-prone skin. “Again, because those with acne prone skin typically have a skin barrier that is compromised, they’re actually more susceptible to UV damage, too,” says Dr. Mian.“ Especially if you are using actives on your skin, you want to make sure to throw on sunscreen so that your skin can stay protected and healthy,” she adds.
“A lot of people with acne prone skin tend to shy away from sunscreen because they think they’ll feel greasy on their skin,” says Dr. Mian, who recommends test-driving various formulas to find one that feels good on your skin and won’t create clogs. “Whether that's sheer, like a balmy silicone texture or a lotion that's lighter and more matte in its after feel—there really is a sunscreen for everyone—it just make take a little bit of trial and error to find which one you like and which one works for you,”she says. Choose a sunscreen that is a minimum of SPF 30 for daily, every day use (translation: you are not baking on vaca). And if you are soaking up some super strong sun intentionally, then be sure to reapply approximately every two hours.
The Pro-Approved Nighttime Acne Routine
(Double Cleanse → Treat → Spot Treat → Hydrate)
DOUBLE CLEANSE
At night, your cleansing routine should look very different than it did only a few hours prior thanks to layers of skincare, makeup, sweat, debris and pollution and oil all piling up all day long. Even the pros say they step it up in the p.m.: “If I don't wash my makeup off before I go to sleep, I guarantee I will wake up with a pimple the next morning because my pores are getting clogged,” says Dr. Mian.
You need to go to bed with a clean slate because overnight your skin is still sweating, forming oil, going through the process of shedding dead skin cells and more. Leave makeup and dirt, sweat and oil on skin for another eight hours on top of the new stuff happening overnight and mayhem can break out (literally!) on the surface of skin as well as deep in pores. “Cutibacterium acnes is the main bacteria that acne prone skin tends to have a higher amount of and and it feeds on oil,” says Dr. Mian. “What happens when it's doing that, it breaks down that oil and then your skin releases what's called cytokines which are proteins which trigger inflammation.” Next: a pimple pops up. “That's why it’s really important that your skin is clean at night because otherwise the bacteria is going to have a party, feed on all this oil, and then you'll wake up with more inflamed red pimples,” says Dr. Mian.
What really works for Alix: double cleansing. “You don't necessarily have to double cleanse every day if you didn't wear makeup and you just have some light skincare on, then you just use your water-based cleanser to remove all the dirt, debris, and things like that off your skin,” says Dr. Mian. “But if you’ve gone out for the night or wore a full face of makeup all day, I would suggest double cleansing, especially if you're acne prone and your skin tends to get congested.” Start with a cleansing oil created for acne-prone skin to help dissolve the oils on skin albeit in your pores or your makeup. (Our pick: Reale Actives Get Bare Makeup Melting Cleansing Balm) Then switch to a gel and sudsy cleanser to help wash away the remaining debris, dirt and residue from the initial cleanse. (Try Reale Actives Pore Power Exfoliating LHA + BHA Gel Cleanser)
TREAT
Along with using the same exfoliants you used in your a.m routine (like mandelic acid or glycolic or lactic acid), now is when you also want to layer other tried-and-true anti-acne actives that could be considered photosensitive such as retinoids and benzoyl peroxide.
“You have to get to know your skin,” says Dr. Mian. “It depends on your skin's tolerability but if your skin can tolerate it, you can absolutely use an alpha hydroxy acid serum like Reale Actives Go Deep 8% Mandelic Acid Serum Concentrate and then a retinoid on top.” If you’re a retinoid newbie, Dr. Mian suggests this starter combo: “If your skin needs to build that tolerance, you can start by doing it every other day,” she says. “And if you have very sensitive acne-prone skin, I'll suggest the ‘sandwich method’ which is when you apply moisturizer, then a super thin layer of retinoid all over and then another layer of moisturizer—the moisturizer acts as a buffer and protects skin a little bit when it's still in the process of getting used to the retinoid.”
SPOT TREAT
According to Dr. Mian there are strict spot treatment rules when you have acne prone skin. “I’ll have patients come to me with acne, then we come up with a regimen and then their acne clears up and they want to change it or stop using it the same way,” she explains. “What I tell them is that their acne is clear now because they've been using these products and if they stop or switch up the skincare regimen, the acne could and probably will come back.”
The bottom line: active serums go all over all of the time, but if you need to add a little extra on a flareup, go for it. “If a product is designed to be used all over your face, then you should continue using it all over even when your skin is clear because that’s what’s keeping your skin clear to begin with,” Dr. Mian notes. When spot treatments are pro-approved: If you’re using a pimple patch on an active breakout for some extra healing or to prevent yourself from picking. Also, “if you’re using a cream designed to be a spot treatment like a benzoyl peroxide cream, then add that extra layer of treatment on those one or two pimples that may need it, wait a few seconds for it all to soak in and dry and then apply your moisturizer as the final step,” Dr. Mian explains.
HYDRATE
“At night, you may want to go for a little thicker moisturizer or may be you’re more likely to apply a thicker layer of the same moisturizer you used in the morning because you’re sleeping and not as concerned about how it looks or mixes with makeup,” says Dr Mian. Regardless of your hydration level preference, at night it’s an essential skincare step because overnight is when your skin is when it’s in repair mode—including trying to rebalance and resolve breakouts. Dr. Mian explains that Reale Actives Dew More Barrier Boosting Moisturizer is intended for day and night and can be customized based on how much you apply and where. “It’s super lightweight because we know those with acneic skin as well as oily skin, like Alix, don’t want a moisturizer to feel too heavy on their skin,” she says.
“Add one to two pumps to your fingertips, then gently emulsify the moisturizer in your fingertips so you almost warm it up a little bit so that the product can break down a little, and then apply it all over your skin and massage it in completely,” she suggests. “You want to massage it in until you don't see any trace of moisturizer so you know that it’s completely absorbed into your skin.”
Shop the Skincare Routine Alix Uses Every Day to Keep Her Acne in Check
Alix’s Morning Skincare Routine
STEP 1 Cleanse
STEP 2 Treat
STEP 3 Hydrate
STEP 4 Protect
Choose a sunscreen that has a minimum of SPF 30 for every day use.
Alix’s Nighttime Skincare Routine
STEP 1 Double Cleanse
STEP 2 Treat
STEP 3 Spot Treat
Apply spot treatment to any areas that need a little extra attention.
STEP 4 Hydrate